![]() Ask the technician, what is special about setting up a 5420. In this case, it makes more sense to learn doing it yourself, which is less complicated to learn as you might think. So again, first check if the technician has the needed experience, before you order a pro setup or you'll waiste your money and maybe make things worse. Then when winding the tuning peg, I hold the string under tension and make sure, that all string windings are below the tuning peg hole. So I cut the string above the tuning post and use the thickness of three fingers as an orientation for the needed string length. first I measure the total string length needed, to get around three wraps around the peg post. And to avoid bridge slipping, you can put violin rosin on the underside of the bridge base. check this video:Īs you can see, the first handicap is to position the bridge base correctly. The problem with the 5420 is, that it's bridge is not pinned and it can slip, when palm muting. The reason for this is first, that both have a pinned bridge and I use a special stringing technique. I have two Gretsches, a Falcon and a Panther, and the tuning stability is superb. Let me tell you my own experience with Gretsch guitars: I treated many of my Bigsby-fitted guitars similarly, and all passed from poor or average to perfect tuning stability - and I am a constant user of the tremolo.īefore you do that, make sure, that their technician has experience with Bigsby equipped hollow bodies !!! So chutsler : if you wonder if your G5420T is able to stay in tune, my answer is YES, but like I did, you will have to work a bit on it. Just easier to play, bend strings and provides tighter tones, cleaning up the mids and bass notes. The only complaint I have is that I prefer lighter gauge strings on my guitars (.10-.46s). My G5420 now stays perfectly in tune, without any help of any extra lubricant. Everything was great and the guitar stayed in tune wonderfully without any need to modify the nut. ![]() I take the precaution to install a set of strings that I soldered the braided / ring side, and I clamp the strings around the tuning posts of the tuners for the E, B and G strings. This was nothing more than an instant swap.ģ - When I have found the satisfactory intonation for a run-in set of 10-52 strings, I pinned the bridge in position (I pre-drilled holes in the rosewood base for that).Ĥ - I checked the total absence of any slightest binding in the Bisgby axle in its bearings (it must be as free as a pendulum, the bearing and the axle must be clean and very lightly greased) and the correct mounting of the spring (I use a BricksBiggFixx Super Squishy Spring instead of the usual Bigsby spring, I feel it more comfortable).ĥ - The tuners are the original one. I could use a roller bridge, but the RBB was more "Gretsch". I replaced it with a TUSQ XL PQL-6060-L0 which is correctly pre-slotted, that I adjusted in height and length to fit the correct nut action and adequate slot size.Ģ - the original TOM bridge was probably not bad, but I felt that a Rocking Bar Bridge would be an improvement in tuning stability. Needless to say that the guitar wouldn't stay in tune at all in any way without some extra modifications !ġ - the original nut was shitty plastic part.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |